Just beyond, a left turning passes the Golaghar or Ahom ammunition store, the stonework of which is held together with a mix of dhal, lime and egg. Beyond are the two-storey ruins of Talatalghar (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; hdawn-dusk), the extensive, two-storey Ahom palace built by Ahom King Rajeswar Singha in the mid-18th century.
Paradise ASSAMESE $$ (1st fl, GNB Rd; mains 100-200) chalets meaning Well known for its authentic Assamese cuisine, its thali is the best way to get a lot of small tasters. Assamese food is not a lip-tingler like typical Indian food and for some this cuisine can seem rather bland, but it s the subtleties you re after rather than the heat.
This hard-to-beat option has helpful English- speaking staff, eager room service and superb food. Rooms are neat, although chalets meaning some may not have external windows. It s by far the most popular of the city centre hotels and is worth booking in advance.
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