KV Paradise MONUMENT (Durtlang; admission 5; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat) V is for Varte who died in a 2001 motor accident. K is for her husband Khawlhring who has since lavished his entire savings and energy creating a three-storey cafe chalet mausoleum to her memory. The marble fountain-patio has wonderful panoramic views. The site is 8km from Zarkawt, 1km off the Aizawl-Silchar road via an improbably narrow dirt lane.
Assam State Museum MUSEUM (GNB Rd; admission/camera/video 5/10/100; cafe chalet h10am-5pm cafe chalet Tue-Sun, until 4pm winter) This museum is worth a visit. It has a large sculpture collection, while the upper floors cafe chalet are devoted to informative tribal culture displays. You get to walk through reconstructed tribal homes.
Tripura s low-key capital, with its small- cafe chalet town atmosphere, feels like an India of yesteryear. The pace of life is much slower than in the towns and cities of the Indian heartlands and people are much more likely to swerve across the street to wish you a good day than to try and sell you something. The old quarter, which centres on the Ujjayanta Palace, has some impressive town gates and pretty tanks and gardens. Durga puja is celebrated with huge pandals (temporary temples built from wood and cloth).
10pm) Best of several closely grouped options. Tripura Tourism (%2225930; www.tripura cafe chalet tourism.in; Swet Mahal, Palace Complex; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 3-5pm Sun) Helpful and enthusiastic with many great-value tours.
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