If you re using a tour company, allow at least one month to obtain travel permits chalet publishing and two months if travelling in a group of less than four (and you re not a married couple). If applying independently allow at least two to three months.
Silk Route HOTEL $$ (%2503301; www.hotelsilkroute.com; Keating Rd; s/d from 1200/1440; W) This small hotel has memorably colourful rooms kept ship-shape by the enthusiastic cleaners. The stylish bathrooms contain big rain showers. It s popular, so book ahead.
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